After driving for seemingly endless hours through mountainous country we finally glimpsed the vast expanse of Lake Malawi. We had driven through beautiful rich volcanic, and very steep, terrain covered in lush foliage and dotted with lots of small farming communities. There were many different food plants cultivated, not just the usual maize and cassava, and I even saw an area that had yellow raspberries (this is for all you ex-Mapletonites) growing wild along the road side. The ridge tops were cloudy and damp with mossy branches and even some fair dinkum rainforest! Oh how I wished I could get out of the truck and go for a meander through that fascinating jungle!
But we were on a mission to get to Kande Beach before sundown.
Kande Beach sounds kinda sweet, and nestled on the banks of that immense lake it was surely a gorgeous place to stay. Lake Malawi is so large that it has tidal effects of up to two metres, and is surrounded by forests and rocky mountains, large leafy trees and freshwater lagoons. Very pretty indeed.
We treated ourselves to an upgrade – from squishy tent to a four poster with ensuite. The shower was interesting, at first glance we noticed the single cold water tap. Uh oh. Then we realised that there were wires running to the bulky plastic shower head, and it dawned on us that it’s an ELECTRIC SHOWER HEAD! Talk about dodgy! But we did risk electrocution and had sizzling and crackling warm showers. It was good too.
Then there were the boys who lurked just outside the big metal security gate, shaking your hand as they crowded around offering you everything, including their sister for a ‘massage’.
But the beach was gorgeous, clean fresh water, turquoise with colourful fish.
The pre-dawn stroll along the beach was enhanced by a big friendly ancient dane/mastiff-cross who joined me as I ambled along enjoying the morning air and serenity. Occasionally picking up interesting seed pods from amongst the clean freshwater flotsam, I strolled towards the brilliant orange sunrise.
On the return walk I was pounced on by some ‘new best friends’ who wanted to shake my hand and sell me bags of Malawi Wowee weed, which of course I politely declined.
On sunset we sat on the beach and watched an old man with a withered arm fishing skillfully for catfish, as a bunch of local boys played in the sand around us and did a bit of their own fishing (not as successfully as the old man though.)
Lake Malawi is definitely our new favourite place in the world.
Beautiful! This blog certainly has the right name.