Looking back on last night’s blog I don’t think I managed to capture the atmosphere terribly accurately. We had done a lot of driving around narrow winding mountain roads, just as we love to do so well, oohing and aahing at the broad views and steep valleys of that spectacular landscape, thoroughly enjoying the size and drama that we were exposed to. Lots of wildflowers amongst the lush pastures, craggy volcanic outcrops on the ridge tops and plenty of hikers hiking and bikers biking along the plethora of tracks provided for vigorous outdoor activities.
I guess my comments about the definite deficit of trees was prompted by my pre-NZ enthusiasm for the mossy wet forests of so many photographs, and the lovely airport experience of wandering through boarding tunnels plastered with murals of the afore-mentioned mossy forests.
We had gondola-ed to the top of one steep hill top where the original plan was for Georgie to settle comfortably in the warmth with a cuppa tea and book in hand whilst Rod went eagerly scrambling about the escarpments. But when we got there the lack of native vegetation dampened his enthusiasm and instead we simply sat and admired the views together.
We are quite aware that this region is an agricultural zone and the wild and more interesting botanical stuff is in the Fiordlands to the south – which we will eventually get to – but we are determined to see as much of this country as possible whilst here. We will dedicate the final week of our two and a bit weeks to that gloriously forested Southwest.
But first to the Northeast. Today we proceeded up the coast for a bit then veered inland to check out the Hanmer hot springs atop an alpine pass. Joining the crush of other tourists hooting along the long straight roads, we passed a few gravelly river beds with low levels of milky melt-water tumbling through the pebbles. Despite the greenness of the fields (to our eyes) there were plenty of irrigation sprinklers pumping water onto the paddocks. Apparently things are considered a bit dry.
Hanmer turned out to be a family fun park sort of resort town that held little interest to us, so after a brief wander about we hopped aboard our little hire car and back-tracked a bit before turning off onto a smaller meandering road which was far more to our liking. We proceeded through more treeless hills until striking the coast and stopped to check out a seal colony for some great photos. There were patches of shiny white ice atop the large mountains ringing the coast and it all looked quite spectacular.
We did encounter a few very steep slopes that held some native vegetation there (Yay! Finally!) and lots of pretty coastline. The vast majority of the hill sides were still desperately denuded and devoid of trees though, and Rod even made the comment that it looked a bit like Morocco, except with grass. We have yet to find any dark mossy forests, and look forward to our first taste of pre-European New Zealand.
With lots of music festivals being held in nearby Nelson, and it being the height of the Summer tourist season, finding accommodation is proving to be a bit tricky. But we eventually located a suitable motel in Blenheim and enjoyed a sumptuous meal in a good Asian restaurant next door.
(Click the pics to make ‘em bigger)
How wonderful. The intrepid travellers in a new adventure show. Love the photos. I am off to NZ end of Feb but only to the North Island. Maybe South next year. Have fun xx
Don’t blame the Europeans entirely for the denuding of the landscape. The Maoris before them deforested much of New Zealand. The Europeans just finished the job.
Depressing.
Gosh Mim, that is news to me! I wonder what tools they used to hack the trees? Did the Polynesians have metals, or was it fire?