Botswana – Georgie and Rod's Grand Adventure

It rained. Then we discovered that the tents they supplied us weren’t really waterproof (are they ever?) and the laundry didn’t dry for three days ‘cos there is no such thing as a tumble drier in this part of the world.

We said goodbye to Victoria Falls and drove out of Zimbabwe back into Botswana with only tiny delays at the border. Then we re-entered the Chobe National Park for another game drive and overnight bush camp.

Lions, elephants, kudus, baboons, mongooses, impala, eagles, vultures, buffaloes, giraffes, etc all presented themselves to us once again. Click click click. It was nice to get back out into the wild scrub away from towns and internet and noise. The night time dunny runs got a little easier to cope with the idea of being watched by hyenas and big cats. You just get used to that stuff.

Then it was on to Zambia, crossing the mighty Zambezi River upstream from Vic Falls. The current there is powerful and the ferry struggled along sideways (almost) with its enormous diesel outboards roaring away like billy-o.

The Zambia border crossing took ages, but we finally made it and settled in to a rather green and lush campsite on the northern side of the Zambezi, not too far upstream from the falls. Luckily the Sun came out and we were able to strew our clothes over branches and get them almost dry There was always the danger that the rather game and cheeky vervet monkeys would pinch some items, but it was worth the risk to get some clean clothes again.

Flying over the Okavango Delta in a light aircraft was an unforgettable experience. It’s a huge expanse of wetlands stretching to the horizon, dotted with lily-filled pools, reedy channels, clumps of fan palms with thick bushes and tall trees, wide grasslands and lots of mega-fauna. We saw a huge herd of heffalumps, countless giraffes, a multitude of hooved ‘antelopean-type’ creatures and even a hippo. It was a blast!

Then we canoed in through the channels in mokoros poled by locals who knew their way through the maze of waterways to our remote campsite. There we watched in awe a small group of four elephants feeding just across the channel on the next island. They are such impressive beasts, big and powerful but so gentle and casual.

The water lilies all around us were in full bloom and we were graced by visions of lilac, pink, white and yellow flowers abuzz with dragonflies and butterflies.

That night, around a blazing campfire, the polers entertained us with traditional songs, and we all participated in a game of elimination, amid raucous laughter. It was beautiful to be spoilt rotten with traditional rhythms and harmonies whilst the lions, hippos and frogs gave a background chorus.

This was meant to be a real ‘bush camping’ experience – we thought we would be roughing it, but we were treated to ready set up tents, with ‘en-suites’ – private enclosures with a hole in the ground pedestal toilet and a tripod shower.

The next morning a herd of seven heffalumps sauntered past in their relaxed and majestic manner.

The Okavango is our new favourite place in the world!