This island off the coast of Zambia is a huge coral atoll that has a dark history. It was a hub for the disturbingly wealthy and gruesome Arabic slave traders that were not allowed to enslave people of their own religion, so they stole and abused people from Africa.
That evil past is but a memory and does not detract from the attractiveness of the place, now the people of Zanzibar are free and happy. The rich soils and tropical climate supports large spice plantations that were taken from the previous owners and given to the people, and those communities not only harvest the spices but also run interesting tourism ventures on them.
We went on one such venture and enjoyed learning so much about the exotic plants there. I had never seen anis trees before nor tasted their delicious fresh picked fruits. The real nutmeg fruits and seeds are so different (and yet so similar) to the Australian natives, and all parts of the cinnamon tree have a smell that is just so fabulous. We saw and tasted so much and had big mobs of fun whilst doing it too.
The next day we went out in the pouring rain to the Jozani National Park to try to see the colobus monkeys. After wading through the knee deep waters that flooded the tall dark forest we did eventually get to see the colobus, heaps of them in fact. Plus large numbers of sykes monkeys and a cute little elephant shrew who scurried across the road in such a big hurry. Everyone was quite wet and bedraggled (I’m talking about the monkeys, the humans were all holding brollys).
After that wonderful experience we returned and wandered around the ancient back streets of Old Stone City getting quite lost and befuddled by the many turns, until we found a great local’s restaurant and indulged in a huge meal for only a few dollars (twenty thousand shillings in fact).
The metre and a half wide narrow twisting cobbled alleys, barely wide enough for little motorbikes to weave between the pedestrians, were sometimes gushing with ankle deep water as the warm rain poured down. The tiny shops with old pedal singer sewing machines chattering away, plus the myriad odds and sods sold in those ancient little rooms were all quite fascinating. Stone steps led up to huge elaborately carved doors depicting the histories of the original owners, each inlaid with large and ornate brass designs and spikes. The brass spikes were intended to thwart elephants from rubbing up against the doors – not that a heffalump could squeeze down those skinny lanes anyway!
Early evenings and mornings fellows wandered the echoey stone streets with loud hailers singing everyone to prayers. Ninety five percent of the population are muslim, but they co-exist peacefully with the small numbers of christians. A lesson the rest of the world should take note of.
Some muslim ladies were mostly draped in what I first mistook for conservative clothing until I noticed the beautiful brightly coloured cloths that they wore. My pre-conceived notions are constantly being challenged.
