Ngorongoro/Serengetti

Climbing the lush green outer slopes of the Ngorongoro crater we bumped our way through very wet forests, the road varying from smooth red soil to deeply pot holed red soil. The bushland around us supported tall trees and dense undergrowth, broad leafed chest high herbs and tangled succulent vines. Despite the relatively wide gaps between the trees for such a wet area, the branches were hung densely with mosses, orchids and other epiphytes. The higher we climbed the more heavily festooned the branches became until they resembled the crooked hairy arms of gorillas.

The thick fog that has propagated these sodden cloud forests refused to clear for the view spots, instead we made do with it silhouetting the twisted woolly trees against a shifting hazy white background.

Eventually we came out of the forests into the Maasai’s grazing land. Zebras and wildebeests mingled freely with their cattle as the brightly clad herdsmen watched silently over their charges. Tall lean men swathed in their red checked shukas, holding long rods as they kept keen eyes out for lions and hyenas.

Then we climbed over the rim of the crater and were presented with a vista that had us muted with awe. The dark clouds shadowed much of the crater walls, but shafts of bright sunlight illuminated parts of the flat valley floor and lit up the many pools and lakes that glistened like jewels. Vast herds of small black dots were scattered about, as a few thin pale lines of 4WD tracks wove between them.

The steep walls that formed the crater were covered in strange wildflowers growing around clusters of tall euphorbia trees (each resembling strange cacti) as well as the uniquely African thorny acacia trees with their wide lateral branches and flat topped canopy.

With the game truck’s pop top up, giving us fantastic all round views, we slowly drove down into this idyllic setting. Long herds of wildebeest wandered around the lower slopes and scattered groups of zebras stood around and grazed on the lush grasses. Wildlife abounded, all around us were the mega fauna that makes Africa so special. Multiple species of hoofed herbivores grazed peacefully, virtually ignoring us as we drove past, cameras clicking madly as we whispered to each other and pointed out each new marvel. Enormous elephants strode confidently across the grasslands, brightly coloured birds as well as tall carnivorous birds were all around. Prides of lions relaxed as buffaloes looked warily on at them. Flamingoes lined the central lake’s edge and we glimpsed distant rhinos lolling in the fresh grass. That place was a paradise.

At one point we stopped for a toilet, not far from where we had observed a lioness and then warily sat upon a log to consume a packed lunch. Georgie was dive bombed by a daring kite who attempted to steal her chicken leg, but her grip was too tight and the bird only managed to scratch her knuckles with its talons.

We then drove on to the endless plains of the Serengetti Nat Park. That vast expanse was littered with grazing animals of all descriptions, and we were not long past the first gate when we came across a flurry of beaks and feathers as a large group of vultures tore frantically at a carcass. Eagles were also amongst the fray and a pair of jackals stood close by waiting their turn. But the real action began when a huge hyena barrelled into the flurry, scattering birds hither and thither. This awesome beastie took command and dragged the carcass a few metres closer to us and audibly crunched the bones into shards. Fantastic!

There were so many animals we saw, everything from tiny insects, through gorgeous lizards to a herd of elephants with lots of tiny babies in tow. A pride of lions had plenty of young cubs (Awwwww!) and we even saw another leopard. Late night toilet trips included a buffalo just outside our tent (“It’s just a cow.” I said, but Georgie replied “Lone buffaloes are the most dangerous!”). Luckily he just ignored us, but the hyena and lion noises went on all night.

The journey back up over the Ngorongoro crater was a real treat because the cloud’s curtains parted and granted us the stunning view from the top. It couldn’t get better than that!

We now have a new favourite place in the world.

(Note: We had a great deal of difficulty choosing photos for this section, simply because had SO MANY to choose from!)