The city of Aix is alive with the sound of music. Yesterday was apparently a special day in the festival calendar and in every square, street corner, fountain and alleyway was a band or musical group. I wandered the town listening to heavy rock (not really my scene), reggae (nah), hip hop (nope), a drumming group (excellent), a melodic sort of folky group (awesome), soft rock (much better), a 100 piece (give or take) marching band (by the time I caught up with them many of the members might have had a couple too many vinos), a couple of saxaphone players (definitely my thing – my favourite instrument), a group singing haunting ballads (loved them) – I think that’s all. No piano players (I guess it wouldn’t really have been easy to get a piano through the cobbled streets and keep it in tune) and no classical music. There may well have been some, but I ran out of steam, so didn’t go looking. The best part is that it was all free. The worst part of it was that I think the entire population of France, as well as significant numbers of other European and American tourists, have descended on Aix.
The last few days have been spent in museums (classics and old masters) and art galleries (contemporary art), meeting and chatting with artists, and seeing the world through different perspectives. Picasso currently features strongly in Aix, with two exhibitions centred around his work, and another collection with a couple of dozen Picassos in it. And Cezanne, of course (this was his home). I’m foot-sore and bone-weary – but at least all this activity will help counteract the croissant and baguette consumption. Two freshly baked croissants for breakfast each morning, and either lunch or dinner of half a baguette with cheese and/or pate and the most delicious rhubarb paste you could ever want for – so I’m only eating in a restaurant or cafe once a day. I thought Australia was expensive…. at first glance prices don’t seem so bad €16 or €17 for a meal – until you remember to double it to translate it to dollars. That’s a lot for lunch. Add another €4 (so $8) for a cup of tea and you realise how prohibitive eating out can become. I look longingly at the ice creams, but cannot bring mysekf to spend $10 or $12 on a couple of scoops in a cone. Oh well, I’m inhaling more than enough calories anyway.
And talking of the cost of living, I’m saddened to see so many homeless people. There are significant numbers of Syrian (I presume) refugees begging on the streets, both men and women. But there are also quite a lot of youngish to middle aged French men (and a couple of older gentlemen) who are sleeping rough, with a cardboard sign asking for money / food for them or their dog (quite a few have a canine companion). I haven’t noticed any obviously homeless women, although I don’t doubt there are some.