Overland Day 8

We drove further north into the stark wilds of Namibia, past folded sand dunes and vast sprawling deserts, some areas glittering in the sunlight with sparkling minerals. Eventually some dramatic mountains jutted sharply up high from the flat plains. I was madly photographing these distant sharply shadowed monoliths from the bus window until Johnny said that we were going there next. I eased off a bit with the clicking.

Before we arrived at these fabulous mountains, known as Spitzkoppe, the bus stopped at a small gem market on the side of the road. The poor desert people gather these semi-precious stones and flog them off to the travellers for a pittance. The rocks were beautiful, and yes we bought some, but my main fascination were the giant crickets that were strolling around everywhere. Gorgeous!

Only too soon we re-boarded the bus and closed in on the distant rocky mountains.

As we approached the rocky monoliths they appeared to rise higher and higher out of the desert. One major dagger-like piece reared higher than the other more rounded mountains. They were obviously ancient granite that had been exposed by erosion from the surrounding very-different geology which harbored those glittering gems. The local people had multiple wobbly timber roadside stalls selling beautiful rocks to the passers-by.

Another set of bush timber stalls we stopped at was run by a tribe who were covered in ochre and had the most amazing hair dos on the women. Georgie bought a bracelet and took multiple photos of the gorgeous children. At this place were the incredible huge crickets as well.

Once we arrived at the mountains some of us went with a local guide to see the San (or Bushmen) paintings. We wandered around this almost mystical environment for a while, clicking madly at this fantastically photogenic scenery. The huge smooth granite tors contrasted so much with the surrounding varied and undulating desert floor.

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Overland Day 6

It was a tiny bit sad to leave that stunning place, but we progressed further north toward Swakopmund, through more dramatic scenery, rugged and unbelievably twisted and ancient rocks, so big, rearing up from the flat desert floor.

The Namibian roads are regularly graded dirt that do have the occasional corrugation, but are basically pretty good. Heaps better than the tarred roads in Madagascar. (It’s funny how I keep comparing things to Madagascar, that place was unique in every way.) The dust was the only problem, but that wasn’t too bad because there is very little traffic anyway.

We stopped at a lookout that was called ‘The Moon Mountains’ or something like that. Truly it did look like another planet, certainly nothing like an Earthly view. The whole place for multiple kilometres around was twisted and uplifted shale rocks that sparkled like something Liberace would wear. Gobsmacking.

We saw a large herd of springboks that kept criss-crossing the road and giving us multiple photo opportunities. Boing boing they go. Very pretty critters.

At Walvis Bay we saw flamingos just off shore on a sand bar. Click click.

Walvis Bay and Swakopmund are both beach towns built on the edge of the desert – a strange sight, especially for those houses on the back street, whose rear fences abut what looks like a million miles of sand dunes.  Not a blade of grass to be seen in anyone’s ‘garden’ – just sand and paving…

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Overland Day 5

Our day began with the giant orange sand dunes of the Namib Desert. That area is perhaps one of the most beautiful and awe-inspiring places on the planet. So big, so clean, so awesome and so plurry hot! Walking over that soft, crumbling and sizzling hot sand was quite uncomfortable but definitely worth it. It is utter beauty on a grand scale. Smooth sweeping and sharply delineated lines of the dune ridges, curving in great arcs up to points as high as 350 metres above the flat desert floor. The view from the top of ‘Dune 45’ was just out of this world. Georgie explored around the base of the dune, electing not to battle the steep climb, and encountered a beautiful – and seldom seen – bustard as well as some interesting lizards and insects.  Both of us felt that it was our new favourite place on the planet – if only it wasn’t so jolly hot!

In the afternoon we were taken to an interesting narrow gorge that had been cut into the hard desert floor millennia ago. Like all of Namibia, the geology was puzzlingly intriguing. The gorge walls held millions of water-worn rounded river stones that were embedded into a porous limestone base. In some sections of this winding channel the hard river stones were sheared off as though cut with a hammer and chisel, or snapped by glacial force. It was wonderfully weird. Goodness me that place is just so fascinating!

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